The Kuna Molas of Panama

The Kuna Molas of Panama
By Dave Skinner
One of the most beautiful forms of “fabric art” is the traditional mola of the Kuna Indians of Panama. Molas are handmade by what is called a “reverse appliqué” technique. Multiple layers of different colored fabric are joined together, then the design is made by cutting out the upper layer or layers to expose the different colors underneath. The margins of the upper layers are folded under and sewn to the lower layers to hold the pattern in place. The threads used to sew the layers together are usually the same color as the uppermost layer of fabric to hide the stitching. The highest quality molas will have a very fine stitching with multiple layers of many colors and the stitching will be nearly invisible. A good, traditional mola may take from three to five weeks or longer to complete.
The classic molas incorporate geometric designs making an abstract art form, but molas may also depict flowers, animals, birds or other objects. Although most often found in single panels that are sold to tourists, the traditional molas are actually used to make blouses or dresses for the Kuna ladies. A used mola panel that has been part of a garment will actually have a higher resale value than the simple panel.
I was recently in the home of some friends here in Tallahassee who collect molas and was amazed at the number and variety of mola panels they had hanging on their walls. I had just come back from Panama where I watched a Kuna lady in the process of making one but had no idea just how popular they are with collectors.